The Art of Tailor Made Dresses.
Tailored made dresses require a specialized type of planning
and sewing. In the first place the materials used in severely
tailored styles are usually heavier or firmer than those
ordinarily used for the so-called dressmaker styles.
The preparation and handling of your
materials is the same in any case. Remember to pre-shrink the
material. Check out the straight of goods. Match stripes.
Remember to make all your marks. Remember the importance of
pressing all seams as you go along, PRESSING TIP - to avoid
seam allowance impression to show on the right side, place
heavy paper between seam allowance and body of the garment
before applying pressure with your iron. All rounded areas
should be pressed over a tailor's ham, and straight seams on a
All tailored styles require interfacing in
order to hold the shape and crisp lines of the design.
Interfacing is cut from the same pattern and it usually covers
an area in a tailored suit jacket - about 3" below arms, curves
over bust line, and extends down along the front edge in about
a 3 or 4" width. In the back it reaches about 5" below the
neckline and curves to the same depth as the front interfacing
below the arms. Interfacing is also necessary for the collars,
cuffs and pocket flaps if the design calls for them.
SEWING TIPS FOR INTERFACING: Instead of
being joined in the conventional manner, the seams are
overlapped and catch-stitched. This prevents unsightly, bulky
ridging. Darts are handled in a similar way - they are slashed,
overlapped, and catch-stitched.
METHOD OF PROCEDURE: The interfacing has to
correspond exactly to the markings and alterations, if any, on
the tailor made dress itself.
Drape the garment, inside out, on the dress
form. Smooth out all wrinkles. Pin the interfacing to it. Make
sure all markings are matched. See that the material and
interfacing are placed together wrinkle free. Baste interfacing
to material at seam lines, front edges, arms, and neckline.
Beginning at the point where your lapel will
fold or "roll", pad-stitch the two together working from the
fold to the outer corner of the lapel. Be sure to pick up only
one thread of your material with each stitch so that they will
be completely invisible on the right side.
Sew twill tape to the roll line of lapel,
and after clipping the front edge of interfacing almost to the
seam line, join it to the garment with tape by sewing one edge
of tape to garment and the other to interfacing with slip
stitches. At this stage - if you are going to have bound
buttonholes - sew them in right through interfacing.
Now baste interfacing to wrong side of
collar. If collar is to remain flat, join it to the material
entirely with padding stitches. If it is to have a folding line
or roll - mark the line of this with machine stitching and
follow with rows of additional machine stitching until the
entire area to the neckline is filled. The rest of the collar
is finished with padding stitches. Steam press the collar to
shape and leave on tailor's ham until thoroughly dry.
Attach the collar to the neckline - right
sides facing - stitch at the seam line through material and
interfacing. Notch neckline seam allowance. Clip interfacing
close to stitching line. Press seam open.
Sew upper collar to lapel and neckline
facing. Clip corners and notch seam allowance. Press seam open.
Pin, right sides facing, to garment. The upper collar and
lapels have to be eased slightly in order to form the proper
shape or roll as you sew them to the garment.
Clip all interfacing close to stitching at
seam allowance. Grade all seam allowances so that they are of
different widths. Clip corners and notch curves wherever they
would buckle or ripple when turned. Before turning press open
all seams with the tip of your iron so that all edges will be
crisp after turning.
Turn the facing and garment right side out
and baste together about half inch from outer edges. Finish
backs of button holes and catch stitch edge of facing to
You are well on the way to completing attractive tailor made
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