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FOR YOU
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Sew And Quilt Store
Killeen, Tx
Temple, Tx
Waco, Tx

HOW DO YOU
REPLACE
INVISIBLE ZIPPERS?

What a wonderful invention: a zipper that does everything that a zipper is suppose to do, but that does not distract from the elegant design of the garment. The invisible zipper is not exactly invisible, but it is designed so you do not actually notice it. It is perfect for snug fitting garments, soft elegant fabrics, wherever you want, but really do not want to see a zipper.

The invisible zipper is sewn into open seams before the seam is ever closed. No top stitching on the face of the garment gives their presence away. They simply hide out of sight out of mind until you need them.

If an invisible zipper breaks, and it can not be repaired the zipper must be replaced. To understand how to best replace the invisible zipper, we must first understand how the zipper is originally installed.

If you think of the zipper as simply part of the seam, you will find installing an invisible zipper to be quick and easy.

The following is a seven step process explaining in detail how to install an invisible zipper.

• First, choose the seam where you want to install the zipper.

• Second, lay the zipper and fabric good sides together.

• Third, pin the zipper in place to prevent it from moving accidentally. (You may baste the zipper I place, use pins to hold the zipper in place, or carefully just begin sewing the zipper in place.)Then using the correct invisible zipper foot and straight stitch the zipper to the fabric. The zipper foot is designed with two special grooves in the bottom of the presser foot to allow the teeth of the zipper to pass through under the foot without snagging or otherwise being messing up.

• Fourth, carefully sew the zipper onto the fabric feeding the teeth of the zipper through the groove of the invisible zipper foot.

• Fifth, sew the opposite side of the zipper in the same direction as the first. This is critical. It must be directional sewn to insure proper hold and function of the zipper.

• Sixth, After sewing the zipper in place, sew the rest of the seam toward the zipper.

• Seventh, finish the seam as usual. (If the fabric is a fabric that tends to fray, zig zag to overcast the edge.)
• Your invisible zipper is now installed. Complete the garment as usual.

Now time has passed and that invisible zipper is broken. What do you do? How do you replace an invisible zipper?

The hard part is taking the old zipper out. When ready made clothing is manufactured with invisible zippers, they seam is often sewn with a serger whose stitches are more difficult to remove than regular sewing stitches, but it can still be done. So take a deep breath and relax. It is not as tough as it sounds. Yes, it is more difficult because you may actually have four threads finishing holding the zipper in place. And yes, one of those stitches may be a zig zag overlocking stitch. But you can do it! The old adage applies here: “As you sew, so shall you rip.”

Start by taking a sharp seam ripper and sliding it under the threads of the zig zag stitch and cutting the stitches about ever half to three quarters of an inch along the seam. Then turn the seam over to the other side and gently using the probe or finger of the seam ripper lift the broken threads out. Repeat this process for the straight stitch or basting stitches. Finally, clear away the pieces of thread and remove the zipper.

Once the old zipper is removed, check the condition of the fabric. Is it worn and torn? Or, is it still in pretty good condition? If it shows some wear, but you are determined to rescue the garment, use a piece of stabilizing tape along the back of the seam allowance and install the new zipper just as if everything were brand new.

AUTHOR:
Donna Trumble is a professional designer, seamstress, author, sewing educator, and sewing business owner.   She leads several Sewing Show And Tell groups in her stores guiding participants to shop sewing machines and learn about sewing and quilting.

David Trumble is a sewing professional, author, semi-retired minister, sewing machine technician, and CFO of Temple Sewing And Supply, Inc.

RESOURCE:
For more information on sewing show and tell groups, check out "Sewing, The World's Greatest Hobby" by Donna and David Trumble.  And check out the local Sew And Quilt Stores in Killeen, Temple, and Waco, Texas or at www.sewandquiltstore.com.