Learn To Sew
Like a Pro
with these expert resources.
is a comprehensive
sewing instruction program with over 300 pages
of vital sewing information. To help you
maximize your learning, it comes with a helpful
work book designed to guide you step by step to
learn to sew.
In addition to the core
textbook and work book, there are several very
useful bonuses that you will treasure for years
as you learn to sew.
is a vital tool for you as
you learn to sew. There are many specialty
terms used in sewing, quilting, and crafting
that have special meanings. My Sewing
Dictionary provides both a PDF ebook format and
an easy to use sofware that makes it easy to
acces the definition and explanation of each
The Rotary Cutting
Many beginning sewers
overlook the special skills and details
involved in laying out patterns as well as
cutting out patterns and fabrics. The Rotary
Cutting Guidebook reveals the vital secrets you
need to learn how to sew and cut out your
To learn more about this
special instruction course CLICK
For more learning
opportunities explore the complete sewing
To Learn about hand sewing
and needle arts CLICK HERE.
Sew A Hem
Do you know how to sew a
hem? It's pretty simple, and the following
instructions will teach you how to sew a neat,
almost invisible, hem every time.
To start with, iron flat
that area of the fabric you need to hem. Now we
need to turn up and pin the hem. The easiest
way to do this is on a flat surface, such as a
table. Your fabric should have the wrong side
I know most patterns allow
for 5/8" for a hem, but I allow a little more
to ensure the hem is not too bulky.
Start with a small section
of the fabric and turn over about 1/2cm or ".
Now fold over again another 1cm or ". Pin this
in place. Because I am right handed, I now move
to the left about 6cm or 2" and do the same
again (if you're left handed, move to the
right). Continue in this way until you have
pinned the entire hem.
Now check and make sure that
the hem is straight, with no bulky sections or
gathers. If there are, just rework that section
of the fabric until it is more even. Unpin,
redo your folding and re-pin.
At this point, you can turn
the fabric back to the right side and iron it,
but this isn't necessary unless your fabric is
particularly slippery (like satin or
Next, we need to get
together our sewing kit.
The most critical thing to
ensure that your hem is almost invisible is to
choose the right thread for your fabric. If
your fabric is very light, filmy, or delicate
(such as chiffon, satin, jersey, cheesecloth,
etc) then choose a very light nylon thread.
If your fabric is a medium
weight (such as cotton, linen, polyester, etc)
then use a regular nylon thread.
And if your fabric is thick,
heavy or bulky (such as denim, canvas, polar
fleece, etc) then consider using a heavier
Once you have decided on the
best type of thread to use, you must choose the
right colour. If you can get a perfect shade
match, well and good. If not, go for one
slightly lighter than your fabric rather than
darker, as this is less likely to show.
Your needle has to match the
fabric and thread. So for light filmy fabrics
use a very fine needle, a regular sized needle
for ordinary fabrics, and a larger more robust
needle for heavier fabrics.
To see whether you have the
right needle, run it through your material once
without any thread in it. If the hole you
create with the needle closes up or disappears
by itself, you've got the right needle. If you
can see the hole afterwards, try a smaller
Now to sew!
Thread your needle, and
leave the short end of thread about 20cm long
or 8". (Note: I never sew with the thread
doubled unless I am sewing on a button). Tie a
knot in the long end of the thread.
I find it easiest to sew
with the fabric on my lap (or the part to be
sewn on my lap).
The fabric should be wrong
side up, with the pinned hem closest to you.
Pick a starting point (a side seam is usually
good), and insert the needle through the body
of the fabric, as close to the top of the hem
as you can, and without piercing through to the
right side of the fabric (that's why I usually
start on a side seam). Now pierce the needle
through the top of the hem by placing the tip
of the needle slightly underneath the top of
the hem and bringing it up through the outer
part of the hem. You can see an image here.
Now place the needle about
1cm or " to the left (or to the right for left
handers) **, as close to the top of the hem as
possible, and insert through several fibres of
the fabric (try not to go all the way through
to the other side of the fabric). Again, place
the tip of the needle under the top of the hem
and insert through and out to the outer part of
the hem. Repeat this until you are back where
** How far apart you do the
stitches depends on several factors such as how
robust the hem needs to be (the more wear and
tear, the closer the stitches need to be), the
weight of the fabric (generally lighter fabrics
can have stitches farther apart than heavier
fabrics) and whereabouts on the garment the hem
is (if fingers or toes are likely to get caught
in the hem when putting it on, the stitches
should be closer together).
To finish off the hem, sew 2
stitches one on top of the other, tie a knot in
your thread, and you're done. Iron your hem
By: Diane Ellis